Amazingly sightings of Iberian Lynx are far from unusual, especially around the Sierra de Andújar Natural Park in the Sierra Morena. In fact, lynx watching has become a popular pastime, with people travelling from all over Europe to score a glimpse of this charismatic feline.

 

 

 

 

With successful trip reports building up on mammalwatching.com, I decided the time was right to make my own pilgrimage to Andújar. Iberian Lynx was the primary target but I hoped to pick up as many mammals as possible. Naturally I also wanted to do a little birding and herping with so many potential lifers in the offering.

 

I had great company on the trip in the form of Hull based birding pal John Saddler and were also extremely fortunate to share our holiday with Mark and Anna Hows of Cambridgeshire.

 

The trip was incredibly successful and exceeded all expectations.

 

 

 

We arrived in Málaga late morning after flying from London Stansted. The sun was shining as we picked up our hire car and made our way out of town. Once we left the chaotic area around the airport we parked up briefly to sort out directions and programme the satnav. The birding began.

 

Greenfinch sang in the shrub, accompanied an unseen Cirl Bunting and a particularly curious Sardinian Warbler.

 

 

 

 

A distant raptor turned out to be nothing more exciting than a Common Kestrel, while a pair of fly over swallows contained both Barn and Red-rumped individuals. Our first Spotless Starlings were added to our tally along with a Chiffchaff.

 

Leaving Málaga behind, we made a beeline towards Granada hoping for our first endemic mammal of the holiday. Common birds such as Magpie and Grey Heron kept us amused along the monotonous motorway, although we looked forward to seeing something much less familiar.

 

Once at Granada, we took the winding A395 up into the Sierra Nevada keeping an eye out for one creature in particular.

 

 

 

Traffic was fast and stopping areas few and far between, as we made our way above the tree line and into an area of rocky scree slopes. Before long I spotted a small group of female Spanish Ibex, luckily not too far from a lay-by where Mark could park the car.

 

 

 

 

As we watched the Ibex, John noticed a raptor sat on top of a far-off crag. As it took to the sky it became evident we were watching one of the local Bonelli’s Eagles much to our surprise. Despite our guide book claiming that raptors are scarce in the mountains, we soon found a Booted Eagle, which appeared to attracting the attention of a very distant Goshawk. After having our fill we left the area and headed to Andújar.

 

The town of Andújar is much bigger than I assumed and we made a quick stop to buy snacks and bait for our mammal traps. The fields around the outskirts of town produced a large group of Cattle Egrets, along with Serin, Spanish Sparrow and more Spotless Starlings.

We headed to the Los Pinos Hotel where we had pre-booked our accommodation for four nights. Azure-winged Magpie was ticked en-route and at this point of the trip was something of a novelty to John and me.

 

Checking into our accommodation took longer than expected due to the reception being closed. However, we were all pleased to find clean, well-equipped rooms before we headed for dinner in the adjoining restaurant. Our lack of Spanish made reading the menu problematic and we all ended up playing a type of Russian roulette with our food choice. Fortunately we all enjoyed our meal, although we vowed to pick up a Spanish dictionary on our next trip into town.

 

After dinner we decided on a quick night drive in order to explore some of our surroundings. The Encinarejo Trail seemed the obvious choice, mostly because it wasn’t too far from the hotel. A light rain promised amphibian activity, although it stopped pretty much as soon as we left the car park.

 

As we suspected, the toads were out in force and we quickly found good numbers of Natterjacks crossing the road.

 

 

 

 

A very light coloured Brown Rat was also seen, together with several probable Wood Mice.

 

Soon after leaving the main road I powered up the spotlight and began to search for eye shine. It was only a matter of minutes before I picked up a medium sized mammal hunting along the riverbank. We initially thought we had scored Egyptian Mongoose as they are sometimes seen in the area. However, it soon became evident we had found a Common Genet, a much higher prize and a top target of the trip.

 

Amazingly we were able to watch the genet go about its business for over ten minutes. Unfazed by our presence, the animal seemed to be hunting frogs among the branches and roots of a fallen tree. Mark even managed a record shot.

 

 

 

 

Leaving the Genet in peace, we explored the rest of the Encinarejo Trail to the sound of calling frogs and an unseen Scops Owl. A Stripeless Tree Frog posed for pictures in a small pool at the roadside.

 

 

 

 

Both Red and Fallow Deer were seen at various points along the road before we headed back to the hotel extremely exhausted but highly satisfied.

 

 

 

Eager to start lynx watching, our group met nice and early by the hire car. The dawn chorus was in full swing, even though the sun wasn’t quite up yet.

 

Several Common Cuckoos called from the pines across the road, occasionally allowing us to see them as they glided between trees. A nearby Crested Tit also allowed a decent view, although it gave us the run around for several minutes.

 

Our first job was to check the small mammal traps we had set in an undisclosed private location outside the park.

 

Two traps held captives which turned out to be Wood Mice. One individual was the size of a small rat, while the other was much smaller. We released the creatures unharmed before making our way back down the Encinarejo Trail. 

 

 

 

 

In daylight the place looked totally different and we were able to see the lynx watch point for the first time.  A Hoopoe provided a distraction as it perched in a tree close to the road, although it flew off before photographs could be taken.

 

A small group of lynx watchers had already assembled along the concrete crash barriers that marked the vista. From our vantage point we were able to scan the dehesa habitat which stretched for miles before us.

 

Setting up our scopes we were quickly alerted to some activity in the Jandula River directly below.  A Eurasian Otter and her two cubs gave perfect views as they played about seemingly oblivious to the group of people watching from above. The otter family put several appearances in throughout the day but were not seen thereafter.

 

 

 

 

The morning at the watch point passed very quickly with plenty to keep us occupied while we scanned the surrounding area for lynx. Despite the light rain, the raptors put on a good show and before long Short-toed Eagle was added to our trip list. A pair of Spanish Imperial Eagle also put in an appearance, including one that perched on the top of a tree much to the annoyance of the local Magpie population.

 

 

 

 

Iberian Green Woodpecker called from the land across the river and was often seen close to the road. Cetti’s Warbler only allowed quick views as they flitted between the riparian vegetation before erupting into their distinctive song. Other birds seen regularly along the river included White Wagtail, Azure-winged Magpie and Cormorant.

 

Perhaps my favourite avian sighting of the morning was a trio of Great Spotted Cuckoo which hung around the trees behind us. Occasionally they chased each other across the Jandula, making a loud chattering call as they went. As a host parasite to both magpie species in the area, the cuckoos were not allowed to remain in any spot for long.

 

The Iberian Lynx feeds almost exclusively on European Rabbits and good numbers of these were observed throughout the morning. A heavily supplemented population of Red-legged Partridge was also very much evident, giving the cats some choice at meal times.

 

By late morning the sun had made an appearance and a couple of Spanish Terrapins were out basking in the wetland behind the river.

 

 

 

 

Several lynx watchers had retired for lunch when John spotted a large animal on the other side of the Jandula. I got onto it quickly and was soon watching a very dark coloured male Iberian Lynx, albeit for only a couple of seconds. Both John and I made the mistake of momentarily taking our eyes off the cat while we called the others.

 

I still don’t know how the lynx managed to disappear at such close range, despite ten plus people joining the search. Somehow it did, perhaps using the many rocks and trees to hide behind for several minutes at a time.

 

The lynx was spotted again by the group of Spanish watchers approximately twenty minutes later, only a couple of hundred yards further down river. Unfortunately the animal disappeared as quickly as before, with only Mark managing a brief view.

 

The afternoon passed without further sightings. We spotted some probable Soprano Pipistrelles as we checked our traps before retiring for a meal at the restaurant across the road from our hotel. Refreshed we hit the road to La Lancha for an evening's spotlighting.

 

Our luck was in as we drove through the cattle properties in search of wildlife. As usual a couple of Wood Mice bounced across the track, although numbers were down from the previous evening. The odd Natterjack was also moved off the road.

 

Before long our spotlight picked up a sounder of Wild Boar as they moved through the woodland boardering the JH5004. A couple of seconds later, two more crossed in front of our car.

 

Both Red and Fallow Deer were out in good numbers, although we had to check each group to make sure they weren’t Mouflon. This introduced wild sheep is supposedly common in the area and was a key target mammal of the trip.

 

The highlight of the evening was another Iberian Lynx seen briefly in the spotlight. Fortunately Anna and Mark got decent enough views before it disappeared into the night. We did not pursue the cat any further and left the area before resuming spotlighting.

 

Another Wild Boar was seen on the drive home before we called it a night and went to bed.

 

 

We awoke to another glorious day and very quickly made our way out of the hotel to check our traps. Surprisingly it seemed we had captured the same two Wood Mice as the previous evening. We then decided to drive the back roads to La Lancha but only after a quick stop in Andújar for some much needed food supplies.

 

 

 

 

Stopping at a stream we were able to observe several Spanish Terrapins as they basked on exposed rocks making the most of the weather. While watching these, I spotted some Iberian Wall Lizards also taking advantage of the sun.

 

Anna mentioned that she had a possible snake in a clump of vegetation at the bottom of a dry stone wall, although I couldn’t see anything resembling a reptile through my binoculars. Setting up the scope it soon became apparent that Anna wasn’t imagining things. Perfectly hidden by a plant was a fairly large Montpellier Snake – a much wanted lifer and a welcomed addition to the blossoming reptile list. For some reason the snake decided to move off, entering the wall and out of sight.

 

 

 

 

 

A pond at Los Escoriales produced both Little Ringed Plover and a Green Sandpiper. A Greater Spotted Woodpecker called from a nearby tree.

 

We ate lunch at the watch point near La Lancha, noting Griffon Vultures and Spanish Imperial Eagles.

 

 

 

 

After a couple of hours we drove down the road to Jandula Dam where we spent some time searching for bats in the tunnel.

 

It seemed at least three species were present, including a couple of Greater Mouse-eared Bats and good numbers of Schrieber’s Bats (below). The third species was a Myotis and most likely Daubenton's Bat.

 

 

 

 

Turning our attention back to birds we observed several new species around the dam.

 

 

 

 

Beautifully marked Rock Buntings (below) competed for our attention with Blue Rock Thrush and Black Redstart.

 

 

 

 

A pair of Black Wheatear (below) and a single Hawfinch were spotted around the abandoned buildings further up the track.

 

 

 

 

Several more hours back at the watch point yielded little apart from deer, although John spotted a distant Southern Grey Shrike. Unfortunately I was slow off the mark and missed it before it flew off. Frustratingly, this was the only Southern Grey Shrike of the week, despite lengthy searches later in the trip.

 

The early evening drive back to the hotel produced a number of new birds in quick succession. First a group of Eurasian Jays were spotted flying through the oaks at the roadside. A flyover Sparrowhawk was seen shortly after, followed by a vocal Corn Bunting and then a Little Owl perched on a rock. The bird list was picking up nicely.

 

After relocating our traps to some pine scrub near the hotel, we enjoyed another delicious meal in the restaurant. Although the sun was long gone, the night time temperature remained in double figures.

 

We decided to drive the back roads again, and like the preceding two evenings, the wildlife was out to play.

 

The cattle properties produced a Red Fox which quickly disappeared from view and also an Iberian Hare. Even in the spotlight we were able to see how different the latter species is from our own Brown Hare.

 

A Wild Boar (below) was taking advantage of the mud in a cow field, and good numbers of Red and Fallow Deer were observed throughout the drive.

 

 

 

 

Shining the spotlight into the trees revealed a couple of Scops Owls, although views were brief. Natterjack Toads and Wood Mice put in several appearances, mostly by crossing the road.

 

As we passed the lynx area from the previous night, I didn’t expect to strike gold twice. However, we found the cat again in almost exactly the same spot. This time it disappeared quickly and again, we did not pursue it.

 

Exploring some of the side roads around Andújar was also fruitful. An old farm pond provided some herp activity as our spotlight revealed some huge Sharp-ribbed Newts (below) sharing the murky waters with the much smaller Bosca’s Newt.

 

 

 

 

Mark also spotted a Viperine Snake curled up in a puddle at the base of a wall.

 

 

 

 

Again we returned to our hotel exhausted but full of anticipation for our final day in the Sierra de Andújar.

 

 

 

Another sunny day saw us leave the Los Pinos hotel nice and early in order to check our mammal traps. Like the previous mornings two of the trap doors were closed. Surely the same Wood Mice couldn’t have travelled several miles for a free bed and breakfast?

 

The first trap had the obligatory Wood Mouse and this was duly released without ceremony. The second trap was much heavier, although we didn’t get our hopes up.

 

Amazingly as Mark opened the trap into the plastic bag out popped a Garden Dormouse! As predicted, this animal was extremely hyperactive and spent all its time trying to escape.

 

Fortunately Mark is an experience small mammal wrangler and managed to contain the Dormouse long enough to take some photographs.

 

 

 

 

In very high spirits we drove down the Encinarejo Trail to our favourite vista point. Being a week day the picnic sites were vacant and we were the only lynx watchers around.

 

 

 

 

The usual birds kept us entertained as we scanned the dehesa for cats. Of note was a family group of Iberian Long-tailed Tits (irbii) that gave great views as they fed in the scrub below the watch point.

 

Later in the morning reptiles began to make an appearance. John spotted our first Large Psammodromus as it basked on a rock down the track. Nearby, Iberian Wall Lizards emerged to sunbathe on the road cuttings.

 

Anna was also on the ball and somehow managed to find a huge but very timid Ocellated Lizard as it sat in a tree hole, several hundred metres away!

 

 

 

 

Lunchtime came and went with no sign of any felines. As the afternoon wore on our enthusiasm started to wane. 

 

John and Mark were down the hill chasing butterflies and for some reason they called me to join them. Walking down the road I randomly stopped to scan the landscape and immediately spotted the dark male Iberian Lynx walking purposely down a vehicle track on the other side of the river.

 

Keeping my eye on the beast, I called the others as quickly as I could. Mark and John arrived looking extremely flustered and out of breath considering the small distance they had run. Anna arrived seconds later.

 

We all enjoyed relatively long views of the lynx and Mark managed to take some photographic evidence.

 

 

 

 

 

Predictably the cat did his party trick and vanished from view behind a large tree. We never saw him again.

 

To celebrate we returned to the hotel early for a siesta, before enjoying our final meal at the Los Pinos restaurant. Then we fired up the spotlight for one last Mouflon hunting mission.

 

Having four lynx sightings under our belt, together with two snake species, Garden Dormouse and a Genet, the absence of Mouflon from our list was cause for a little embarrassment. They were supposed to be easy, especially at night!

 

Slowly we made our way towards Los Escoriales, paying especially close attention to ungulate eye shine. We saw countless deer before a group of animals just past the farm showed different characteristics to the usual Red and Fallows. On closer inspection they turned out to be a group of Mouflon, complete with at least one ram. Sadly they were extremely timid and disappeared over the brow of the hill before the cameras were out.

 

With our final mammal target safely in the bag, we could relax and enjoy the rest of the night drive.

 

Before long we passed the spot where we had scored lynx on the previous two nights. Half heartedly I shone the light around the area, seriously not expecting a third sighting.

 

Immediately two very bright eyes reflected back and before us lay our lynx - sprawled out on a large rock in full view, like a king surveying his kingdom!

 

Maybe he didn’t count on us spotlighting the area yet another night, or perhaps he thought we deserved a proper sighting after so much effort. Either way, the lynx made absolutely no attempt to evade us this time, he just merely turned his back on us as a sign he was bored with our presence.

 

Respecting his privacy we left the sleeping cat before we really wanted to and continued on our way.

 

Our next treat came in the form of a perched Scops Owl, making a welcome change from the usual brief flight view, while further down the road we spotted good numbers of Myotis bats hunting insects over a stream. At least some of these were Daubenton's Bats.

 

A Western Spadefoot Toad on the road ended an outstanding night and we retired to bed extremely satisfied with our last day in Andújar.

 

 

 

Day 5 (March 24) More mad Dormice 

 

Before we left the Sierra de Andújar for the Málaga Province, we had to check our traps one last time.

 

We were amazed to find nearly half our traps sprung, although Wood Mice were the likely captives. The first two did indeed contain Wood Mice and these were quickly released into the pine scrub. As Mark emptied the third small mammal trap a huge Garden Dormouse dropped out into the bag.

 

Surprisingly the three larger traps also held dormice giving everyone a chance to hold one before release. It goes without saying that I got the psycho animals, while the others received the docile, cute ones! Actually, there is no such thing as a docile, cute Garden Dormouse but I’m sure I had the worse two.

 

Once our traps were packed up we were able to leave Andújar for the second part of our trip.

 

POSTSCRIPT: Despite advice to the contrary, since leaving Spain I have been reliably informed that spotlighting is prohibited in the Sierra de Andújar, and all other national parks. I should also stress that a licence is required to trap small mammals, even on private land.